Raspberry Pi

[techcenter]

sigur ca postez! am incropid un HOW TO bazat pe informatiile gasite pe alte forumuri si usor adaptat ultimei versiuni de debian (modificat). incerc sa-l traduc in limba romana si sa-l atasez la acest post. sper sa se mareasca numarul de utilizatori al acestui produs!

succesuri!

p.s. nu vreau sa fac reclama, dar sunt de parere ca ar trebui sa postez modalitatea de achizitie. astept OK-ul moderatorilor.

[SuperSonic]

Nu vad nicio problema in postarea acelei informatii, am facut si eu comanda pentru acest mini-pc, dar mai am de asteptat destule saptamani.
Succes la teste.

[techcenter]

pentru cei interesati in achizitia acestui microPC, pasii sunt urmatorii:

se acceseaza acest link: http://export.farnell.com/rp/order/
in aceasta pagina, se selecteaza tara. in cazul nostru Romania. (acest lucru este foarte important, deoarece are legatura cu destinatia de livrare si limba de corespondenta).
dupa acest pas, in functie de preferinte (daca aveti firma si vreti sa-l importati asa) selectati Bussiness sau Consumer, apasand butonul ORDER NOW! din dreptul fiecarei selectii.
urmatorul pas cere completarea datelor personale, a adresei si modalitaii de plata.

urmeaza un email de conformare de la info-ro@farnell.com. si-apoi....asteptarea. comenzile sunt multe si asteptati-va la 3-4 saptamani pentru livrare. in momentul in care aveti produsul gata pentru livrare, veti mai primi un email cu aceasta informatie si, dupa caz, un tracking number la DHL.

apoi, urmeaza distractia. pregatesc (asa cum am scris si mai devreme), un tutorial pas cu pas, cu pregatirea cardului de memorie cu sistemuld e operare si, tema experimentului nostru, isntalarea OSCAM-ului cu suport pentru cititoarele tip smargo si PCSC. eu am un HID OMNIKEY 3111, pe care il folosesc impreuna cu OSCAM-ul de foarte mult timp. asta este un alt subiect pe care il pot dezvolta cu alta ocazie.

pentru inceput, puteti studia pagina comunitatii: http://www.raspberrypi.org/

canalul youtube dedicat: http://www.youtube.com/user/raspberrypitutorials?feature=results_main

cred ca veti putea sa va faceti o idee despre capabilitatile si flexibilitatea acestui dispozitiv.

succesuri!

[proteus]

sigur ca postez! am incropid un HOW TO bazat pe informatiile gasite pe alte forumuri si usor adaptat ultimei versiuni de debian (modificat). incerc sa-l traduc in limba romana si sa-l atasez la acest post.

Cred ca majoritatea de pe aici inteleg engleza fara probleme. Dar daca vrei, pot sa ajut cu traducerea. Da-mi un semn pe PM daca vrei.

[techcenter]

un prim tutorial, de pe canalul oficial, raspberry pi:

COPIEREA SISTEMULUI DE OPERARE, pe SD card. da, hard disk-ul acestui micro computer, este unSd card. personal, am folosit un SDHC de 8GB, relativ no-name (producator:HAMA).




Comentariu original:

Links used in this tutorial:
Raspberry Pi Operating System Downloads:http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads
Win32DiskImager: https://launchpad.net/win32-image-writer/+download
MD5 & SHA-1 Checksum Utility: http://download.cnet.com/MD5-SHA-1-C...-10911445.html

The Raspberry Pi is a £15/$25 computer that runs GNU/Linux. Seehttp://www.raspberrypi.org/ for more info.

I plan to provide Linux tutorials for those who are new to it, configuration tutorials once the Raspberry Pi is out, and programming tutorials following that.

succesuri!

---------- Post added at 02:07 ---------- Previous post was at 00:48 ----------

Compilation Oscam for Smargo / reader PCSC and Smartreader on Raspberry Pi under Raspbian

This tutorial will explain how to compile a Oscam Raspberry PI. The PC from which this tutorial is done in Windows so I'm referring to programs for Windows (putty and Win32DiskImager). Refer to the documentation of Raspberry Pi if you use another system to create your bootable SD card.

Install an image Raspbian "Wheezy"

Check the following link and choose the image Raspbian "Wheezy".

http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads

Download: Win32-Disk-Imager and unzip.
Insert an SD card (2GB minimum) in your SD card reader and launch Win32DiskImager, check that it has selected the letter of your SD card, select the file containing the image Raspbian and click Write.
Eject the SD card properly on your PC and install it in the Raspberry PI.
Connect your Raspberry PI on the computer network (LAN) and connect the AC adapter / micro usb to start it.
I use the Raspberry Pi pure server, so I do not install a keyboard or mouse and I did not resort to the graphical interface of the RPi.
You must find the IP address of your IP Raspberry, the easiest way is to connect the router and watch what is the last IP address assigned.

Therefore we will download and install putty (if not already) on your PC.
Download putty.(putty download link)

Start Putty, type the IP address of your IP Raspberry, take as connection type: SSH (port 22).
In the left window to Window - Translation and choose Remote Character set: UTF-8
Click in the left window on session and then right into the fields: Saved Session define a name and click Save.
There you have a shortcut to putty to connect quickly to your Raspberry Pi

Click Open and accepting the key.
You are on the prompt:
Login: pi
password: raspberry

	Code source
1 2	login as: pi pi@xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx's password: raspberry

There I would suggest doing a rapi-config:

	Code source
1	sudo raspi-config

You can take: expand root-fs
You can configure the rest according to your preferences (keyboard, the local timezone).
At timezone take for example: Europe - Bucharest
End up with an upgrade, it will update your distribution to the latest versions of packages and then leave Raspi-config.
I suggest to reboot. Type:

	Code source
1	sudo reboot

Your Raspberry will restart, the memory card ready for use and take full account of any up-to-date.
Reconnect via putty on your Raspberry.
We will install the build environment:

	Code source
1 2 3 4	sudo apt-get -y install build-essential libssl-dev libpcsclite-dev mercurial cvs subversion libncurses5-dev cmake dialog pcsc-tools sudo apt-get -y install opensc pcscd libccid pcscd sudo apt-get -y install libusb-dev sudo apt-get -y install libusb-1.0-0-dev

It will ask you again the password of the user ft (default raspberry).
We will create a symbolic link to the compilation of Oscam find libusb library.

	Code source
1	sudo ln -s /usr/lib/arm-linux-gnueabihf/libusb-1.0.a /usr/local/lib/libusb-1.0.a

We will create a user to compile our useroscam Oscam and isolate oscam and our environment.

	Code source
1 2	sudo adduser useroscam sudo adduser useroscam sudo

We create user useroscam and then we add it to the group sudo (so he can run the sudo command).

It will ask you the password for that user 2 times, then various questions not mandatory. Finish by answering y (yes).

pi@raspberrypi ~ $ sudo adduser useroscam
Adding user `useroscam' ...
Adding new group `useroscam' (1002) ...
Adding new user `useroscam' (1001) with group `useroscam' ...
Creating home directory `/home/useroscam' ...
Copying files from `/etc/skel' ...
Enter new UNIX password:
Retype new UNIX password:
passwd: password updated successfully
Changing the user information for useroscam
Enter the new value, or press ENTER for the default
Full Name []: OscamUser
Room Number []:
Work Phone []:
Home Phone []:
Other []:
Is the information correct? [Y/n] Y

pi@raspberrypi ~ $ sudo adduser useroscam sudo
Adding user `useroscam' to group `sudo' ...
Adding user useroscam to group sudo
Done.

We will connect via that user.

	Code source
1	logout

Reconnect with Putty but this time the utilsant utilsateur useroscam with the password you set.
We will download and compile our Oscam.

	Code source
1 2 3 4 5 6 7	cd svn co http://streamboard.de.vu/svn/oscam/trunk oscam-svn cd oscam-svn/ mkdir build cd build cmake -DHAVE_LIBUSB=1 -DHAVE_PCSC=1 -DWEBIF=1 -DHAVE_LIBCRYPTO=1 -DWITH_SSL=1 .. make

The first compilation will take longer, since all modules will be compiled later if you do a daily update, only the modified modules will be recompiled. Consider also that the processor of your Raspberry Pi is limited in power and therefore the compilation takes longer than on a PC.

Example of the compilation:

Scanning dependencies of target csmodules
[ 1%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-webif-pages.o
[ 2%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-anticasc.o
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[ 21%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-radegast.o
[ 22%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-gbox.o
[ 24%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-cccam.o
[ 25%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-dvbapi.o
[ 26%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csmodules.dir/module-newcamd.o
Linking C static library libcsmodules.a
[ 26%] Built target csmodules
Scanning dependencies of target svnversion-log
[ 26%] Built target svnversion-log
Scanning dependencies of target csoscam
[ 27%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csoscam.dir/oscam-reader.o
[ 28%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csoscam.dir/oscam-config.o
[ 30%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csoscam.dir/oscam-chk.o
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Linking C static library libcsoscam.a
[ 34%] Built target csoscam
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[ 36%] Building C object CMakeFiles/csreaders.dir/reader-tongfang.o
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Linking C static library libcsreaders.a
[ 51%] Built target csreaders
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[ 51%] Built target svnversion
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[ 53%] Building C object csctapi/CMakeFiles/csctapi.dir/ifd_mp35.o
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Linking C static library libcsctapi.a
[ 71%] Built target csctapi
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[ 98%] Building C object CMakeFiles/oscam.dir/oscam.o
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[ 98%] Built target oscam
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[100%] Building C object utils/CMakeFiles/list_smargo.dir/list_smargo.o
Linking C executable list_smargo
[100%] Built target list_smargo

Compilation we generated two files

	Code source
1 2	ls -Fal oscam ls -Fal ./utils/list_smargo

list_smargo

list_smargo is a utility that allows you to quickly find the right configuration for your readers smargos.

For a real SmartReader / Argolis / smargo reader:

	Code source
1	sudo ./utils/list_smargo

Sample output:

Looking for smartreader with an out endpoint = 0x82 :
bus 001, device 004 : 0403:6001 Smartreader (Device=001:004 EndPoint=0x82 insert in oscam.server 'Device = Serial:Reader 57')

If you use a compatible player Smargo / Smartreader (typically a modified Smart Infinity USB mode Smargo) you must use an additional parameter that displays list_smargo you put your reader in Smargo mode.

	Code source
1	sudo ./utils/list_smargo 0x81

To detect and test your PCSC card reader you can use the command:

	Code source
1	pcsc_scan

It is available provided you have installed the packages mentioned earlier in this tutorial.
To verify that your smart card readers are well recognized, you can type lsusb:

	Code source
1	lsusb

In this example we see a player type and Smargo reader PCSC.

Bus 001 Device 004: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 USB-Serial (UART) IC
Bus 001 Device 006: ID 058f:9520 Alcor Micro Corp. EMV Certified Smart Card Reader

Note: Tests with this reader PCSC were not conclusive, but I think the problem is the reader who does not support all cards.

oscam

Executable Oscam file you just created.

	Code source
1	sudo ./oscam -h

___ ____ ___
/ _ \/ ___| / __|__ _ _ __ ___
| | | \___ \| | / _` | '_ ` _ \
| |_| |___) | |_| (_| | | | | | |
\___/|____/ \___\__,_|_| |_| |_|

OSCam cardserver v1.20-unstable_svn, build #7218 (arm-linux-gnueabihf)
Copyright (C) 2009-2012 OSCam developers.
This program is distributed under GPLv3.
OSCam is based on Streamboard mp-cardserver v0.9d written by dukat
Visit http://streamboard.de.vu/oscam/ for more details.

Features : webif monitor ssl dvbapi irdeto-guessing anticascading debug smartreader pcsc loadbalancing
Protocols : camd35_udp camd35_tcp newcamd cccam cccam_share pandora cache-exchange gbox radegast serial constcw
Readers : nagra irdeto conax cryptoworks seca viaccess videoguard dre tongfang bulcrypt

Usage: oscam [-a] [-b] [-c <config dir>] [-d <level>] [-g <mode>] [-h] [-p <num>] [-r <level>] [-S] [-s] [-t <tmp dir>] [-u] [-w <secs>]

-a : write oscam.crash on segfault (needs installed GDB and OSCam compiled with debug infos -ggdb)

-b : start in background

-c <dir> : read configuration from <dir>
default = /usr/local/etc

-d <level> : debug level mask
0 = no debugging (default)
1 = detailed error messages
2 = ATR parsing info, ECM, EMM and CW dumps
4 = traffic from/to the reader
8 = traffic from/to the clients
16 = traffic to the reader-device on IFD layer
32 = traffic to the reader-device on I/O layer
64 = EMM logging
128 = DVBAPI logging
256 = Loadbalancer logging
512 = CACHEEX logging
1024 = Client ECM logging
65535 = Debug all

-g <mode> : garbage collector debug mode (1=immediate free, 2=check for double frees), these options are intended for debug only!

-h : show this help

-p <num> : maximum number of pending ECM packets, default:32, maximum:255

-r <level> : restart level
0 = disabled, restart request sets exit status 99
1 = restart activated, web interface can restart oscam (default)
2 = like 1, but also restart on segmentation faults

-S : do not filter sensitive info (card serial numbers) from the logs

-s : capture segmentation faults

-t <dir> : tmp dir <dir>
default = /tmp/.oscam

-u : enable output of web interface in UTF-8 charset

-w <secs> : wait up to <secs> seconds for the system time to be set correctly, default:60

Sudo for this command is not necessary but later oscam need to high rights in order to start its web interface.
We will always start oscam mode 'sudo'.

For the next compilations we must be while logged in user useroscam:

	Code source
1 2 3 4 5 6	cd cd oscam-svn svn up cd build cmake -DHAVE_LIBUSB=1 -DHAVE_PCSC=1 -DWEBIF=1 -DHAVE_LIBCRYPTO=1 -DWITH_SSL=1 .. make

Start with Oscam on Raspberry Pi

We'll place our executable and configuration files to a directory Oscam Oscam in the "home" directory of our User useroscam.

	Code source
1 2 3 4	mkdir ~/OScam/ cp ~/oscam-svn/build/oscam ~/OScam/ cp ~/oscam-svn/build/utils/list_smargo ~/OScam/ cd ~/OScam/

Then you must create a file named oscam.conf in the ~ / Oscam / directory.

	Code source
1 2	cd ~/OScam/ touch oscam.conf

which must contain the following:

Note: If you are not familiier with editing file in Linux, it is probably easiest to take the empty file oscam.conf and edit on your PC using Notepad + + or CrimsonEditor. NEVER use the standard Windows Notepad to edit a file Linux.

Code source

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

# # main configuration # [global] nice = -1 WaitForCards = 1 # logging logfile = /tmp/oscam.log usrfile = /tmp/oscamuser.log cwlogdir = /tmp/cw # monitor [monitor] port = 988 aulow = 120 monlevel = 1 # web interface [webif] httpport = 8888 httpuser = oscam httppwd = oscam httpallowed = 127.0.0.1,10.0.0.0-10.255.255.255,172.16.0.0-172.31.255.255,192.168.0.0-192.168.255.255 # protocols [cs378x] port = 30000

You can then restart your Oscam with the following command (as always useroscam):

	Code source
1	sudo ~/OScam/oscam -c ~/OScam/ -b

Your newly compiled Oscam is now active.
You can manage it through its web interface:

http://ip_of_your_raspberry:8888

Login: oscam
password: oscam

Remarks:
- For the specific configuration of Oscam, I suggest you watch the other tutorials in this forum.
- If you débuttez in Oscam it is best to run it without the-b option to stop it more easily.
- To kill Oscam once it is started with the-b option to:

	Code source
1	sudo killall -9 oscam

Tutorialul, nu-mi apartinere. Este adunat de pe web si tradus din limba franceza. Sper sa va fie util.


Succesuri!

[apoklyps3]

ma gandesc ca prin suportul linux ar putea deveni un reciever in toata regula folosind tunere dvb-c sau dvb-s pe usb. singura problema e ca acestea costa mai mult decat el

[techcenter]

acum, daca te gandesti sa faci un receptor satelit, se pare ca exista posibilitatea de a instala si combinatia XBMC + VDR si OScam cu DVBAPI. eu am oarecare rezerve privind combinatia asta, privind resursele microPC-ului. sunt de acord vis-a-vis de costurile tunerelor USB, cat si despre rezultate (performante). as merge pe varianta receptor linux "din fabrica", desi imi face placere sa experimentez tot felul de traznai! eu sunt in posesia unui tuner tv pe USB, de la Avermedia ce nu are suport pentru linux. asa ca, tocmai s-au terminat experimentele. daca-mi pica in mana un tuner USB (indiferent de standard), cu suport linux, promit sa-l pun la treaba!

p.s. sunt la teste cu o categorie de dispozitive, destul de importanta in configuratia viitoare a microPC-ului: hub-urile USB. cu sau fara alimentare.
apropos de alimentare, tineti cont de consumul dispozitivelor conectate pe porturile USB! sistemul rezerva (hardware!) 200mA pentru ambele porturi USB! conectarea consumatorilor "energofagi', duce la comportament instabil!

succesuri!

[apoklyps3]

ar fi recomandate hub-urile cu alimentare. oricum sunt sigur ca raspberry nu va ramane la acest stadiu. probabil in timp vor a parea multe alte SOC mai peformante.

[techcenter]

1. vis-a-vis de huburile cu alimentare: asta este concluzia tuturor utilizatorilor. acum, caut hub-ul cel mai stabil. exista undeva, o lista cu dispozitivele testate si compatibile cu acest microPC. trebuie s-o gasesc si voi posta link-ul.

2. in mod cert, acest microPC este un pionier in domeniu! asteptam "concurenta" si deschiderea competitiei.

vorba lu' taica-miu: pana si filtrul de cafea va avea posibilitatea sa ruleze linux, la un moment dat!

succesuri!

---------- Post added at 12:53 ---------- Previous post was at 12:50 ----------

articol preluat de aici: http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware

Power

The board takes fixed 5V input, (with the 1V2 core voltage generated directly from the input using the internal switch-mode supply on the BCM2835 die). This permits adoption of the micro USB form factor, which, in turn, prevents the user from inadvertently plugging in out-of-range power inputs; that would be dangerous, since the 5V would go straight to HDMI and output USB ports, even though the problem should be mitigated by some protections applied to the input power: The board provides a polarity protection diode, a voltage clamp, and a self-resetting semiconductor fuse.
Premier Farnell recommend the following power supplies:

• Model A: 5V dc, 500-700mA
• Model B: 5V dc, 700-1200mA

Power consumption of the Raspberry Pi device is

• Board A: 5V, 500 mA (2.5W) without any devices connected (e.g. USB, Ethernet, HDMI)
• Board B: 5V, 700 mA (3.5W) without any devices connected (e.g. USB, Ethernet, HDMI) (Is this correct? These [1] links [2] suggest that the 700mA is only required if "using networking and high-current USB peripherals" [3].)

You will need to provide a power supply that can provide enough current to power the device plus any connected peripherals, and taking into account inefficiencies of the supply itself and the cable between the power supply and Raspberry Pi. The community advises opting for a power supply that can supply at least 1A if using USB peripherals or Pi plates that draw more than a few tens of milliamps of current.

• As the 5V rail is brought out in the GPIO pins, you can power the Rpi from there too. You should mind however, that those are behind the power protection circuitry, so you should provide your own.
• It is possible to power the Rpi from a powered USB hub the Rpi controls, but only on 'dumb' devices, that allow the port to supply the full current without waiting for the usb device to ask for it[4]. As the power input of the Rpi doesn't have its data leads connected, there is no chance for a communication loop of some sorts.
• POE (power over ethernet) is currently not available for the Rpi (but nobody stops you from taking your soldering iron and doing it yourself - mind though that the Ethernet jack on the board is a 'magjack' -http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/P...ng/MagJack.pdf - which means that the usual 'dumb or passive PoE' power pins 47 and 78 are *not* wired through to the board. So this is not an entirely trivial exercise).

Power Supply Problems

There have been a number of problems reported that seem to be caused by inadequate power, this is an attempt to explain what is needed and the consequences of not having enough power.
The power required by the Pi will vary depending on how busy it is and what peripherals are connected.

• Running a GUI will take more power.
• The USB devices and Ethernet connection will take power.
• Running the GPU will take extra power.

This means that it's difficult to say exactly how much power is needed. People have reported current requirements of between 300mA and 550mA. But it could in reality take more, especially for short periods. A simple multimeter will not show short surges on the power requirement. A surge in the power requirement for a few milliseconds will not be detectable by a meter but will be enough to cause problems. If the board does not get enough power the voltage will drop. If it drops enough parts of the system will run unreliably because data can get corrupted. The USB IC runs on 5V and handles the USB and Ethernet ports so it's likely that this will be the first thing to fail. Problems seen are unreliable Ethernet connection and unreliable operation of the Keyboard and/or mouse.
Each of the two USB ports on the Pi has a polyfuse rated at 140 mA, so any connected USB devices should draw less than this amount of current. In addition the polyfuse will cause a significant voltage drop, so that USB devices get less voltage than is available on the RPI itself, sometimes up to half a volt less (maybe more if the fuse has recently been hot). For regular "low power" USB devices this doesn't cause a problem as they are designed to work with voltages as low as 4.4 Volt. This isn't the case however with some USB devices such as WiFi dongles which may need 4.75 Volt, and are also known to draw more than 150 mA when configured and active.
The microUSB input port also has a 1.1 A polyfuse (700mA "hold current") which may also have enough resistance (although much smaller than the 140mA fuses) to cause a significant voltage drop on the board, even below its 1.1 A total current.
A extended explanation of the consequences of the use of these polyfuses can be found here Polyfuses explained
There are several reasons why the power to the board may be inadequate:

• The PSU may not deliver enough power. Although the maximum power requirement is said to be 700mA, that is with no peripherals connected (USB, Ethernet etc), so a 1000mA PSU should be regarded as a minimum. This allows some leeway in case the power supply cannot deliver its full power without the voltage dropping.
• The PSU is not regulated.
• The cable connecting the PSU to the Pi may not be good. People have reported cables with 4 ohms resistance on the power connections. At 500mA drain this would reduce a 5V supply to 3V.

How Can I tell if the power supply is inadequate?

Common symptoms of an inadequate power supply are

• Unreliable Ethernet or keyboard operation, especially if it's OK at first but not when the GUI is started.
• SD card errors at start up seems to be another symptom of poor power.

If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board to facilitate voltage measurements.
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable. Anything inside, but close to the limits, of this range may indicate a problem.

It has been reported by a number of users that Apple iPhone and iPad USB power supplies are inadequate for powering the R-Pi. ([5]).
Things that can cause problems

• A USB connection on a TV or PC. The USB power supply specification is for up to 500mA and if the TV implements this then it can cause problems. The system may work initially but be unreliable because as it becomes more active the power requirement increases.
• A single supply from a powered hub. Most hubs seem to deliver more than the specified current but there's no guarantee. Check the power supply rating, it must be enough to supply everything that's connected to the hub.
• A power supply that is rated for less than 700mA may work some of the time.
• Adding a USB hard disk drive. A HDD will take quite a lot of power as it starts, maybe an amp or more. It the power supply for this also supplies the Pi then this could overload things and cause trouble.
• Some complex keyboards have been reported to take a considerable amount of power, maybe up to 500mA. The Pi cannot deliver this amount of power. Simpler budget keyboards may be better. If the system works with no keyboard attached but not with a keyboard then it's worth trying a different, simpler, keyboard.

Summary

• If you are having unreliable operation the first thing to do is check your power supply.
• Start with a good quality regulated power supply that is rated to provide 5V and at least 1A (1000mA).
• Use a good quality micro USB cable. Cables are notorious for giving trouble so be prepared to swap for another one.
• Not all power supplies will deliver what they claim.

Capacitor C6

Behind the microUSB power connector on the Model B is a metallic grey component called a capacitor, marked as C6. This capacitor helps stabilise the DC power on the board, but for some it has also become a place for their thumb when removing the RPI's power lead; unfortunately, this can result in the capacitor breaking off! It has been stated in the forums that the type of capacitor used for C6 will be changed on later RPi models for one with sturdier leads. If you do break off your C6 capacitor, it's highly likely that your RPi will still work properly, unless you have a particularly unstable power supply, but the general advice is to not use C6 as a leverage point when removing the power connector and also take care when storing or transporting your RPi if it's not fitted in a case - try not to stow the board where C6 could be knocked by other items - for example in a laptop carry case or in amongst some books.

Capacitor C6 (ringed)

It's unlikely that replacing a broken off C6 capacitor will be covered under warranty, but fortunately they are easy to replace if you have average soldering skills, but remember that reworking your RPi will void its warranty too. C6 is a surface mount electrolytic capacitor with a capacitance of 220 microfarad (μF) and a voltage rating of 16 volt (V). The capacitor is polarised and so must be fitted the right way round - notice the black marking on one side in the picture above. A replacement capacitor can be purchased from numerous sources - for example:
Farnell
Rapid Electronics
RS Components

If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: Power Supply construction - HowTo

---------- Post added at 12:54 ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 ----------

A 5V power supply for the Raspberry Pi - Construction How To

Due to various problems with the power supply for the RaspberryPi, a home made PSU might be a solution for some of you. You will need some experience with construction of electronic circuits, appropriate tools and a multimeter.

I have had problems with a cheap 5V/1A adapter from Ebay too (freezing, no LAN, etc.) ... The adapter could not provide enough power. It had 5.0xV unloaded, but with RaspberryPi connected I've measured 4.78V and less - dropping to 4.5V on TP1 and TP2, and that's not good. The voltage drop might be partially caused by the cable, but I've used a branded Nokia cable that looks pretty solid. Anyway, we have to compensate for that too. Also there is some voltage drop on the polyfuse F3, hence don't expect to get >=5.0V on TP1-TP2...

Cheap PSU

Cheap PSU - inside

So instead of looking for another PSU (or cell phone charger), I decided to make my own PSU with the popular 7805 - 5V/1A regulator.

The basic idea is shown on this schematic:

The resistors R1 and R2 serve as adjustment of the output voltage. The formula is: V out = V fixed + { R2 [ (V fixed/R1) + I standby] }, where V fixed=5V and I standby=2.5mA (for 7805). I calculated for resistors that I had at home, but for best results R1 should be about 470ohm to 1k. Remember that resistors have some tolerance, so results may vary slightly, always measure. Value of C3 is not critical, I recommend 100-470uF. Same for C4, where for every 1A drawn, use 1000uF of capacity (and add some reserve). Don't forget to put C1 and C2 as close as possible to the regulator. And a heatsink for the regulator is necessary too.
I've used an old 9.5V/1500mA power supply from an printer as the source for this regulator, so no transformer and rectifier etc. was needed in my case. And it works just fine

Here is a schematic of a complete PSU including all components:
(a suggestion, with better filtering and protection)

Starting from left, we have a transformer (protected by a fuse - F1) supplying about 7-12V AC at 2A (use what you have at home or what is cheaper to buy). Next is a rectifier (or 4 diodes / >1A) with caps (C7-C10, for filtering). Now we should have approx. <AC voltage> x 1.41 - so if we have a 9V transformer, it will be about 12.69V. The 7805 needs at least 2V (depending on type/manufacturer) more on the input than on the output (I prefer using a little more, >3V to be sure) for stable regulation, and it can be up to 35V (but a big difference between input and output voltage means "a lot work" for the regulator and a lot heating). In this case, 8-9V DC measured after the rectifier would be optimal. Main filtering is ensured by C4 (use at least 1000uF for each 1A drawn), another filtering after the regulator is C3 (100-470uF). C1-C6 serve the 7805 for stable function and HF filtering. R1 and R2 adjust the voltage to 5.25V, as described before. D1 and D2 are for protection. A transil is used for over-voltage (peaks) protection on the output, a 5V8 type should be fine (5.8V reverse standoff voltage and approx. 6.2V breakdown voltage) - use P6KE6.8A or BZW06-5V8. For operation signaling (device on) a LED coupled with R3 is used. You may use another fuse on the output - F2.
This is a rather fancy circuit, you may simplify it if you like - by leaving out C7-C10, C5, C6, D1, D2, LED and R3, F2 (and the transil, if you don't want any protection). Or leave just some of them. Your choice

Also if you prefer to fine-tune the output voltage, you may replace R2 with a small pot (trimmer) as shown here:

With this values (R1=1k, R2=100) adjustment from 5V to approx. 5.75V is possible.


Resources on 7805

For more info about the 7805 regulator, google the datasheet and see the following resources.
Resource links:
The Adjustable Voltage Regulator,
Variable power supply using 7805,
or google more
The testing prototype

This is my testing prototype of this PSU, based on the first schematic. It's made of "what was found in the drawer". I've used an old 7805 regulator in TO3 package, C3 was taken from some broken mainboard, C4 is left out (it's not necessary, because the circuit is powered by a stable power supply from some old printer). The PSU provides stable 5.25V and i have 4.82V on TP1-TP2. My RaspberryPi works OK now

[GEXE]

de carcasa dau comanda marti/miercuri pe ebay. de raspberry incercati cu un tel sau mail la teguna.ro

[GEXE]

A cumparat cineva acest produs de AICI ?

[dbhungry]

A cumparat cineva acest produs de AICI ?

Eu am avut proasta inspiratie ca sa ma inregistrez la RS si nu la Farnell, la momentul la care am fost invitat sa il cumpar mi-au estimat la 9 saptamini termenul de livrare, mai am putin de asteptat, in prima jumatate a lunii septembrie, ar trebui sa il am pe masa. Voi da mai multe detalii, daca se considera a fi utile, dupa ce intru in posesia lui.